Wrap up the heat from your exhaust and header! Our premium grade exhaust wrap features a tighter weave than any other fiberglass heat wrap on the planet. This tighter weave retains more heat and makes our header wrap less susceptible to fraying. In addition to the tightest weave, it features our HPTC coating. For most header wraps the fiberglass will become weak and brittle at 1000-degrees Fahrenheit , coatings (like graphite or vermiculite) will extend the base temp to 1200-degrees Fahrenheit , but the fibers will still become brittle. All fiberglass exhaust wraps have a base maximum operating temperature of 1000-degrees Fahrenheit . Our new HPTC coating allows our premium wrap to operate at 1350°F continuously. With our new coating, not only does it give the fiberglass a higher rated temperature of 1350-degrees Fahrenheit , but it allows the fibers to remain flexible and strong at 1350°F. Flexible fibers will expand and contract with the metal of the exhaust system, ensuring long term maximum heat retention and a longer life! No more brittle wrap turning into powder and falling off your pipes. The improved flexibility and strength also gives Premium Exhaust Wrap an increased abrasion resistance even at 1350-degrees Fahrenheit . It also results less fraying when cutting, installing, fewer loose fibers, and less itch. The black HPTC is deep black and it stays deep black after it has been heat cycled and also comes in bright white.
Download Exhaust Wrap Instruction Sheet
How much do you need? Click here for our exhaust wrap calculator
Required equipment: safety glasses, dust mask, gloves
Optional equipment: long sleeves (highly recommended), water spray bottle or bucket, needle nose pliers, diagonal pliers
- Keep in mind; wrapping headers and exhaust pipes requires patience. Going slow and taking your time will help to make the wrap as tight as possible and that will hold the wrap on the pipe better and retain the most heat in the system. (If you are installing wrap on a powersport application, we recommend a 50% overlap in place of the ¼” overlap during the installation process).
- Optional: Soak in bucket of water or spray exhaust wrap with water. Soaking and spraying exhaust wrap can make installation easier and also reduce the amount of fibers. It is not recommended to wet HP Color Wrap (ceramic coating needs to be heat cycle before it is fully cured, soaking will wash off coating).
- It is important to start on side closest to exhaust port (closest to engine), wrapping down the system towards the exhaust tip.
- Make an initial wrap around the pipe flush with flange, then and wrap around pipe 3 more times at an angle, then secure end with Thermal-Tie™ or hose clamp.
- After securing end, continue to wrap around pipe, using ¼” (or 50% overlap) with each pass and keeping tension on the exhaust wrap.
- Every 4 to 5 passes (or coils) around pipe use your hands to go back tighten the wrap. If you soaked wrap, you'll see water dripping out. Getting the water out is not the purpose for this, tightening the wrap is.
- If your primary tubes become so close together you cannot wrap them individually, wrap both pipes as one while using the same ¼” (or 50%) overlap.
- When wrapping the collector start with a ¼” (or 50%) of wrap overlapped on the wrapped primary tubes.
- Use Thermal-Tie to secure end
- Clean up and go have fun!
PLEASE NOTE: Your exhaust wrap will smoke after installation, it will eventually stop. Smoke is a normal by product of the curing process; your wrap will not burst into flames. HP Color Exhaust Wrap will discolor after installation and turn brown; this is a normal part of the color coating curing process. The brown color will disappear; intervals will vary with exhaust temperatures. Cooler burning exhaust systems can take up to 5 days of normal use before the color coat completely cures hotter exhaust systems may take only 30 minutes.
It is not advised to wash exhaust wrap after installation, pressure washers can damage wrap and also cause it to change color.
MSDS | Specification Sheet | Brochure | Brochure (printer friendly)
Insulation type: Insulator, retains heat in
Material: Fiberglass, proprietary thermal coating
Header and Exhaust Wrap Calculator
Q. Why does your fiberglass exhaust wrap have a lower temperature rating than (Brand) *** or ********* fiberglass wrap?
Fiberglass has an operational/service temperature of 1000°F. With coatings this can be improved to 1200°F, and without own proprietary HPTC, it can be improved to 1350°F. We acknowledge advertising our fiberglass wraps to have a lower temperature rating doesn’t help us in sell over another brand. We strive to be honest in our operational and peak temperatures. While it is true the fiberglass wraps can sustain a flash temperature of 2000°F, this is for less than 30 seconds. The designed sustained temperature for fiberglass wraps with traditional coatings is 1200°F like vermiculite or graphite, with the proprietary coating for our Premium and Cobra Wraps, we can extend it to 1350°F.
Q. Why don’t you sell a spray on silicone coating for your wrap?
We are not in the silicone spray business. That being said, even if we were, we wouldn’t sell a silicone spray to begin with good quality wraps don’t need a silicone coating to work. While coating the wraps is not necessary, we do understand the desire to upkeep a certain cosmetic appearance, we can respect that. Instead of using a silicone spray (silicone is good for about 450°F continuous, sprayable silicone is good for 300F max) we would recommend hitting a local auto parts store. Walk in and grab yourself a can of exhaust paint in your desired color. Exhaust paint is a ceramic based paint (usually rated between 1500°F and 2000°F), it will last a lot longer than a silicone paint and work better too. Look for a brand like VHT or Dupli Color.
Q. People say wrapping your exhaust pipes causes them to rust, is this true?
A. No, fiberglass, basalt (lava Wrap), and silica (Inferno Wrap) are all naturally water resistant fibers. This means, they will resist and repel water. A properly installed wrap will actually prevent less moisture from touching the exhaust pipe. Pipes that are completely saturated, like in a flood or extreme driving condition would see some water getting through to the pipe.
Q. Why does my exhaust wrap smoke when it is new? Is this bad for me to breath in?
A. No, the smoke you see is a starch (often called a binder), the starch goes on the fibers when the fibers are still raw. This is to aid in the knitting process. The smoke you are seeing is the starch burning off during the first couple of heat cycles the motor. While it isn't harmful to breath in, we suggest avoiding it if you can, it stinks - don't hot box in your garage!
Q. I have heard soaking the wrap when I install it will cause it to shrink and fit the pipe better, is this true?
A. No, we are dealing with fiberglass, basalt, or silica fibers here, not cotton. These fibers don’t shrink like some of your clothes would. Soaking may cause a tighter fit because wetting the wrap significantly reduces the amount of fibers. With fewer fibers floating around, you are less itchy, that allows you to take your time and get the wrap nice and tight. Patience is key when wrapping any pipes. Wetting it will also aid in causing the wrap to “stick” itself better when coiling around a pipe, again aiding in installation, but technically it does not shrink to fit the pipe. Soaking is not necessary, you can dampen the wrap with a spray bottle, but soaking is not necessary.