Wouldn’t it be great if you could keep the heat inside your exhaust without voiding the warranty on your headers? What if that same product didn’t itch when you put it on and that initial smoke from a header wrap was reduced to a minimum? Kiss your header wrap good bye and say hello to our Header Armor Heat Shield.
Header Armor features our revolutionary BioCool technology. It is a bio-soluble insulation capable of withstanding 1,800 degrees F all day long. BioCool technology makes it less itchy than exhaust wraps and there is minimal smoke when the product is first used.
Unlike an exhaust wrap which is wrapped completely around the tubes of a header, the Heatsheild Products Header Armor shields heat from one side. This allows one side of the metal to breathe; making it compliant with most header manufactures warranty. Header Armor can also stop more heat form radiating off the pipe than an exhaust wrap, up to 70 percent of the heat, compared to 40-50 percent with common header wraps.
And installation of our Header Armor is easier than header warp, too. As always, wear gloves, safety goggles, and a dust mask.
First make a note of where your spark plugs are located in correlation to your headers. If your spark plugs sit below where your header mounts to the cylinder head, you will need to partially wrap the Header Armor around the upper parts of the header tubes to leave room for the spark plugs and plug wires. If our spark plugs are above the header, you can wrap a single sheet of Header Armor across the outside of all the header tubes.
Make a template; this saves you time, money, grief and aggravation. Test fit your template onto your header. It’s a good idea to make the template larger than the desired finished size of the Header Armor so that you can cut and finish the edges. If you’re using ¼-inch thick Header Armor, leave an extra ¼-inch on any edge that you will need to cut. Leave an extra 1/2-inch if you are using the 1/2-inch thick Header Armor.
Once your template fits well, transfer the design onto the Header Armor and carefully cut the armor. Once the Header Armor is cut to the correct overall size, you can finish the edges using this trick: Trim the insulation only along the edge either 5/16-inch for the ¼ inch thick armor or 3/8 inch from the edge for the ½-inch thick. Be careful to trim the BioCool insulation only, do not trim the aluminum. Now peel the trimmed insulation from the edges. Carefully fold the aluminum layer over, covering the edge of the insulation. This way you are protecting the insulation and giving it a clean, factory-finished look.
Place your Header Armor onto the exhaust header. Carefully use the included Inconel wire to poke a hole through the armor layer on one side of the pipe. On the other side of the pipe, use the other end of the Inconel wire to poke another hole. Bring the two ends of the wire together in the middle behind the header Armor. Twist to tighten into place. Cut off any extra wire. Now fold the wire back into the header. This way if you have to do any work in this area in the future you minimize the chances of cutting yourself.
Repeat this procedure until your header is covered with this heat shield. When you are done, install the header back on your car and go.
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